- How do I perform a basic mechanical safety inspection of
the bicycle ?
- How do I repair a basic flat tire?
- What do I do when the bike is not shifting
properly?
- How do I correct brake problems?
- Why is my crank making a "creaking" noise when I
ride?
A. Inspect the Headset.
(a.) Description: The headset is the series of
components that attach the fork to the frame. There are bearings and
bearing races in this system and if the headset is not properly adjusted one
can do premature damage to the subcomponents of the bearings and bearing
race surfaces. There are many different types and sizes of headsets, each
style requiring specialty tools for proper adjustment.
(b.) Inspection: Position the handlebar and
front wheel at a right angle to the frame turning the handlebar at a 90
degree angle to the main frame. Gently rock the bicycle back and forth with
the brakes on. Look carefully at the headset to inspect for movement, play,
or "tunking". If you see movement or feel some play or a distinct "tunking"
kind of feeling then the headset is loose. If there is no movement in the
parts then the headset is adjusted ok.
B. Inspecting the Bottom Bracket:
(a.) Description: The bottom bracket is the
series of components that attach the crank arms and pedals to the
frame. Like the headset there are bearing and bearing race system that
requires the proper compression of the bearings up against the races for
proper adjustment. If not properly adjusted the cyclist can cause
irreparable damage to the bearings and the bearing surfaces necessitating
premature replacement. There are many different types and sizes of bottom
brackets that also require special tools for proper adjustment.
(b.) Inspection: Grab hold firmly of the crank
arms when they are in a vertical position and gently rock them back and
forth against the bottom bracket shell. Look carefully at the bottom
bracket to see if there is any movement of the bottom bracket, any play or
"tunking" in this area. If there is play or "tunking" in this area then the
bottom bracket is loose and in need of adjustment or replacement depending
on they type of bottom bracket you have.
C. Inspecting the Brakes:
(a.) Description: There are many different
styles of brakes on bicycles. There is the Coaster Brake (built into the
rear hub), the Center Pull Brake, the Side Pull Brake, the Cantilever Brake,
the Linear Pull Brake, the hydraulic Brake, the Drum Brake and others.
There are many variations of the above described brakes manufactured for
bicycles. The brakes on your bicycle is obviously one of the most important
components for your personal safety so it
is important to know which style of brakes your bike comes with and to know
how to inspect them. The following inspection technique is for the most
common brakes, the side pull, cantilever and linear pull style of brakes.
(b.) Inspection: Squeeze the brake lever and
inspect the position of the brake pad or brake shoe up against the rim.
Make sure the position of the brake pad is properly aligned to the rim and
that the brake pad does not touch the tire. Next, make sure the leading
edge of the brake pad strikes the rim first. Now lift the bike giving the
wheel a spin in the direction it would go if moving forward to see if the
pad strikes the side of the wheel. If the brake shoe rubs the rim this
could mean you have a wheel that is out of round or a wheel that is not
properly centered in the dropouts or fork. It could also mean that the
brake springs are not properly adjusted causing one side to rub the wheel.
You will also be looking for how the brake lever
feels. Does the lever feel kind of "squishy" or does it have a nice "snap"
to it when you squeeze and release it. If it feels sluggish then you could
have a cable problem or a problem with the brake lever itself. Cables can
get water inside them and cause corrosion and can have burrs that are hidden
and cause the cable to not react like it should. It is very important to
inspect the cables.
The brake cable is made up of 7 strands of wire
that are tightly twisted so to make up a standard brake inner wire. If
there are any individual strands of the brake wire broken it is time to
change the cable as your braking power is greatly reduced. Bent cables can
cause a sluggish feeling in the brakes or small burrs on the cable housing
ends.
Put simply, the cyclist depends on good brakes.
If there are any problems detected, do not ride the bike until the proper
and professional brake adjustments are made. This is not a "back yard" home
mechanic type of procedure. You should get into your local bike shop where
the pros can handle this for you. Once again, without the proper tools, the
expertise and the experience in working on all types of brakes you will not
be able to adequately make these adjustments on your own.
D. Inspecting the wheels and tires:
(a.) Wheels: Give the wheel a spin in the
direction it would normally roll if moving forward to be sure it does not
hit the brakes. As mentioned above this could mean you have a wheel that is
out of round or a brake that needs adjustment if the wheel is hitting the
brake. Make sure you have no broken spokes or loose spokes. Also, make
sure that there is no movement between the hub cones where the bearings are
located to be sure there is no play or "tunking" noises in the hub. If you
detect movement at the hub or play then you need a hub adjustment.
(b.) Tires: Make sure the tires are not worn.
The rear tire will always wear faster than the front tire since it is the
drive tire and receives the most friction. Also inspect the tires for any
bulges at the side wall. This could mean you have a broken side wall and
the tire needs to be replaced before you experience a blow out. Under low
air pressure squeeze the tire to the rim to see if you can see threads or
cracking of the tire. Butyl has a life span even if the tread appears to be
in ok condition the tire may not be safe to ride or dependable if there is
weather checking or cracks in the rubber or the side wall that exposes the
cloth underneath. Once water makes contact with the cloth, the cloth can
rot and tear easily under pressure also causing a blow out.
Also be sure the tires are properly beaded up to
the rim. Inspect the side of the tire to be sure the tire is fitted equally
around the edge of the rim and that there are no places where the tire takes
a dip underneath the edge of the rim or is sliding up over the edge of the
rim. The tire has to be properly seated on the rim for optimum performance
and safety.
Then, before each ride, inspect your air
pressure with a good floor pump. Inspecting the air pressure before each
ride will reduce your risk of flat tires and prevent wheel damage and
premature wearing of the tires. The recommended pressure for your tires is
printed or embossed into the tire by the tire manufacturer on the side
wall. Sometimes there is an acceptable range of recommended air pressure.
Whatever the manufacturer recommends is what you should have in the tire.
Be sure you have an understanding of the two major types of tube valves and
how they work.
(c.) Quick Release Mechanisms:
Make sure you have a complete understanding of
the Quick Release mechanism and how it works. There should be one at each
wheel and sometimes at the seat post. On folding bikes, child trailers, and
other cycling equipment the Quick Release mechanism is used to be able to
remove or adjust equipment without the use of tools. While it is a
tremendous convenience it can also be a serious hazard if not properly
adjusted.
Your owners manual will show you how to properly
adjust the Quick Release mechanism but if you are still unsure you need to
get into your local bike shop right away to have them show you how this
simple and convenient system works.
Put simply, too tight and you can break the
Quick Release mechanism and too loose one can have a wheel come loose or a
bike seat come loose. Once you learn how to use these, they are very
effective and very safe. One should open and close each Quick Release
skewer on the bicycle before each ride making sure the nutted side is tight
enough so that when the skewer is closed it begins to want to bind when at a
right angle to the frame. The skewer operates on a cam system that will
give the proper amount of torque to properly securing your wheels onto the
frame.
E. Inspecting the Handle Bar and saddle.
(a.) Handlebar: Grab hold of the front wheel
with your legs standing over the front wheel facing the handlebar. Make
sure the handlebar stem is properly aligned with the wheel and that when you
try to turn the handlebar that it does not move inside the fork or the
handlebar stem. If the handlebar moves then it needs to be tightened to the
proper torque spec.
(b.) Saddle: Grab hold of the rear wheel with
your legs standing over the back of the bicycle facing the seat. Make sure
the nose of the saddle is aligned with the top tube and try giving it a
twist. If the seat moves you will need to tighten either the Quick Release
mechanism or the seat post binder bolt.
You have now completed a Basic Mechanical Safety
Check. If you find that you need any of the adjustments above you should
not ride the bike until those adjustments are properly made. Please
understand that the above inspection is exactly that an inspection. It is
not a step by step procedure on how to make the proper adjustments to you
bicycle.
Bicycle Mechanics is a profession that requires,
a thorough knowledge of the bicycle a lot of technical skill, a wide variety
of special tools and a lot of experience to be good at it.
Please do not attempt to do these adjustments or
any other on the bicycle without a complete understanding of how the bicycle
works. Manufacturer torque specifications, proper tools and equipment and
the correct step by step procedures are absolutely necessary for effective
bicycle mechanics on today's modern bicycles. These procedures are not for
the "back yard" weekend mechanic without the right tools. If you do not
know what to do trust the experts at your local bike shop for assistance.
Originally owned bicycles purchased at our shop
are covered under our Pro Service Agreement that includes all of the
adjustments mentioned above and many more not mentioned in the Basic
Mechanical Safety Check. To learn more about our Pro Service Agreement
click onto our Service page.
Flat
tires are common with cycling. We share the roads and trails with a host of
debris and there are a lot of different causes of flat tires. There is no
"rocket science" behind it but there are a few helpful steps to avoid having to
re do your work.
1.
Upon removing the wheel from the bicycle, mark the tire at the valve before
removing the tire from the rim.
2.
Carefully remove the inner tube and tire. Inspect the inside of the wheel for
exposed spoke nipples or burrs or a worn rim strip.
3.
Inspect the inside and exterior of the tire for possible debris still embedded
in tire. Remove any debris discovered from the tire before installing the new
inner tube.
4.
Inflate the old inner tube to discover the position of the hole or leak. Place
the inner tube valve up against the mark you made on the tire before removal to
see the approximate position of the projectile that entered the tire.
5.
Install the new inner tube being careful not to pinch the tube between either
the tire levers or the side of the rim as this will cause another flat tire soon
after your repair.
Re-install the repaired wheel making certain that the axle nuts or the quick
release mechanism is properly installed and tightened according to manufacturer
recommendations.
Basically, make sure you do your best to discover the actual cause of the flat
tire before throwing a new tube in or you will most likely suffer yet another
flat from the same cause.
Always
make sure you use the correct tools, never use a screw driver or other sharp
object to remove the tire from the rim. Tire levers are the least expensive of
all the bike tools and if you do not have them then do not try to do the job by
yourself or you will more often than not be purchasing another tube
Inflate
the new inner tube before installation just enough to give it shape so as to
avoid pinching of the tube between the tire bead and the edge of the rim.
Be sure
to use the correct size inner tube, never substitute.
There
are numerous other tips but always with anything mechanical, even the most
common of bicycle repairs such as the flat tire repair, experience and practice
always makes your pro shop your best choice when in doubt as to the exact step
by step procedures.
Always
carry a good pump for re-inflation when out on the road or trail. A tool bag
with a spare inner tube, tire levers, multi tool are of no use whatsoever in a
flat tire situation without a small alloy pump. Be sure your pump is adequate
for the job and is convenient. Again, practice using your frame fit portable
pumps and be sure they are set up for the correct type of valve for your inner
tube.
Always
use a floor pump before each ride in accordance with your bicycle's owner's
manual to preserve your tires and prevent flat tires. Bring your tires to the
recommended pressure before riding each and every time. This small step is no
less important than making sure you have your helmet on and should be a part of
your prep routine.
Contact
us with any further questions or stop in with your flat tire repair needs. We
usually can do them right while you wait and our professional mechanics have
repaired hundreds of thousands of flats over the years with the best experience
for handling your cycling needs.
[Coming soon]
[Coming soon]
[Coming soon]
Jack Crawford.
Copyright © 2007 [Loose Spokes Bicycle Sales & Service]. All rights
reserved.
Revised: 11/26/07.